Monthly Archives: November 2008

Transvestite Spirit Dancers

While in Bago, we checked out a performance by a group of dancers who are purportedly able to channel some of the 37 spirits (Nats) commonly worshiped in Burma.


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The all-male dancers (Nat Kataws) impersonate these spirits and dance to a small, but unbelievably loud orchestra. Believers watch intently and often pin money on the dancers. The performances can go on for hours and involve lots of smoking and drinking, eventually causing some of the dancers to go into a trance.

To get the “full effect”, watch the video to the right.

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More Sights on the Road to Yangon

There was much to see on the leisurely return trip from Kyaikhityo, (The Golden Rock). Here are a few of our favorites. Hover over the images for a brief description.




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Mother and Daughter

Back in Ingabo once again, a proud mother escorts her daughter – considered one of the most beautiful girls in the village – to the initiation ceremony.

I think it’s worth pointing out that this image was not staged – it was shot as it happened. Photo opportunities like this come at you constantly in Burma.

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Safely Home

We survived the rest of our amazing trip and the 26 hour flight home, and we’re exhausted. Now comes the hard part – sorting through 4,539 images and getting the best of them up on the site. We are delighted to hear that many of you are waiting for more pictures, and I promise to deliver soon. But first, we’d like to thank a few people.

Thanks to Steve and Grant who were kind enough to loan me their expensive camera gear. I would not have been able to get some of trip’s the best shots without your lens and awesome travel tripod.

Thanks also to our friends who talked us into traveling to this amazing country in the first place. Don, Jum, Chris, Ben, Jerry and Tum – thanks for convincing us that a trip to Burma would be memorable. The trip proved to be everything you said it would be and more.

We’d also like to send a huge thanks to William Myatwunna and his crack team at the award-winning Good News Travels. William is articulate, professional, charming and extremely capable. He and his top-notch team managed to exceed our expectations through the entire trip. We consistently found ourselves in the best rooms in the best hotels with the best views. We felt like royalty. We can not recommend William and Good News Travels highly enough. Five stars.

But the highest praise goes to the guide William chose for us. We spent just two short weeks with Tun, but in that time we became incredibly close. We really looked forward to seeing him each morning – no matter how early. He quickly became much more than a travel guide. You might think we’re both nuts, but we really do miss him. We don’t know how we’ll face the morning without his smile and guidance. Thank you so much, Tun. Our trip was made magical by you.

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Ingabo Village

On today’s return trip from the Golden Rock, we made a few stops. The last of our stops was in Ingabo Village where we happened upon the initiation rite for this 12 year old boy. Tomorrow he heads off to the monastery to do a stint as a monk, where he will begin a regimen consisting of 227 strict rules.

But before he goes, there will be much celebration and dancing. After a blessing and feast, the young man is sent off in style on the back of a costumed dancing (or not) horse.


Some things are best described with sound and motion, and this was one of those events. If you’d like to see how the dancer moved and hear the band or if you’d like to see a non-dancing horse and some adorable kids hamming it up, click on the videos below.

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Get the Flash Player to see this movie.

Posted in Burma 2008, Video | 5 Comments

Bago Market and the Golden Rock

I thought this might happen at some point in the trip, but it’s happening sooner than I expected. I already have way more pictures that I’d like to share than I can post from here. Trying to edit my images down to a few favorites is not easy. I’m averaging 400 or so shots per day – and that’s just because I’m so lazy. This place is a photographer’s paradise. I could shoot ten times as many images if I had the energy, and that’s no exaggeration. The sights come at you rapid fire. There is something to see in every square inch of this amazing place.

We took a break during our four hour drive over some of the worst roads imaginable and stopped briefly in Bago to visit the bustling market. I wish we could have stayed longer. The sights and smells were equally overpowering.



Later, it looked like we were in for disappointment on the way up the extremely steep hill to the Golden Rock. (More about the climb in a later post.) The weather turned very foggy, and for a while it looked like we might not even be able to see the rock, much less produce a decent photo of it. However, our fortune changed and just before sunset, the skies opened up to reveal one of the most spectacular sites we have ever seen. (Respect to Mark Downey for setting the gold standard for this shot.)




Continuing our streak of good luck, sunrise the next morning from our room at the Mountain Top Motel was the most beautiful either of us had ever seen.

Beautiful sunrise!

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Yangon, Shwedagon

The capital city bustles with activity, even early on a Saturday morning. It seems every one of Yangon’s six million inhabitants has something to sell. Unfortunately, we saw many more sellers than buyers. Jim was amused by the Burmese version of outdoor cafes with their tiny chairs and tables. No, neither of us had the nerve to try the fried crickets.





After a fabulous lunch with a tea leaf salad and Myanmar beer at the Monsoon Restaurant, we paid our respects to an enormous reclining Buddha.




Later, our guide timed our arrival at Shwedagon to coincide perfectly with the setting sun.

It’s impossible to convey the scale of this magnificent golden pagoda in photographs. I’ve seen many pictures of this site, but until I saw it for myself, I never realized just how massive it is. It’s hard to imagine that the giant monument is made of solid brick covered with gold leaf which gives way to gold plate as you get nearer the bejeweled top. Currently much of the 327 feet of pagoda is covered by scaffolding while they repair damage caused by the devastating Cyclone Nargis. If you look closely at the first shot below, you can see workers descending the bamboo stairs. This will give you some sense of its size.



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